Risotto is the emblematic dish of Northern Italy. It embraces a particularly wide palette of savours and thus offers scope for many aromatic combinations. Either white meats or seafood are added to a base of rice with a hint of saffron. The former pair up perfectly with a young rosé, and the latter with a smooth white. Mushroom or cuttlefish ink or even beef marrow risotto needs to be washed down with a lively wine sporting the necessary aromatic intensity.